Consider Your Climbing Style

You should first decide the type of climbing that you will do the most often. Once you know your climbing style, you can select the right harness for your needs.

Multi-Purpose – Multi-purpose harnesses are known as all-around, crag or sport harnesses. Multi-purpose harnesses are ideal for beginners because they are designed for a number of climbing applications such as top-roping, sport and gym climbing. Most multi-purpose harnesses have padded leg loops and waistbelts for which provides more comfort, especially if you take a fall. Some multi-purpose harnesses have detachable leg loops which will allow you to detach your legs while remaining attached to the rope. Most climbing harnesses have gear loops for carrying your climbing hardware such as carabiners, chalk bag, quickdraws etc. Multi-purpose harnesses will usually have a front loop that allows you to attach a belay/rappel device.

Alpine – Alpine climbing harnesses are made for long mountain trips. These harnesses are pretty basic and usually have minimal padding and very few extras so that they will be light weight with low bulk. Alpine harnesses are made of non-absorbent materials so that they will withstand the rough environment of glacier and alpine climbing. The waistbelt and leg loops on alpine harnesses are very adjustable to make it easier to get in and out of when the harness is not needed. The leg loops are sometimes removable so you can take potty breaks while staying tied into the rope.

Big Wall – Big wall harnesses are for climbers doing multi-pitch, multi-day climbs like in Zion’s National Park or Yosemite Valley. Big wall harnesses will have lots of padding on the waistbelt and leg loops to relieve pressure during hanging belays or aid climbing. Big wall harnesses will also have multiple gear loops that will help put much of the wait on your harness instead of on your shoulder gear sling. They usually have a full-strength haul loop in back for towing a rope or heavy gear bag.

Competition – Competition harnesses are the best choice for climbing competitions like “On Sight Difficulty” or “Speed” events. Competition harnesses have a slim design and narrow webbing to allow a full range of motion. Most competition harnesses will typically have little padding and few, if any extras.

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